Seeing as we’re finally in the throes of a heatwave (late and somewhat soggy but heatwave nonetheless) my thoughts have been turning to swimwear. I would argue that whether we’re talking a spot of balcony sunbathing, a dip in a backyard paddling pool, a visit to your local lido, or for those fortunate enough to be venturing abroad, a good cossie is worth its weight in gold.
I remember a time when bikinis were purchased with abandon. Dirt cheap, and disposable, every summer saw the arrival of a new swimsuit for that summer holiday. Knowing what we do now about plastics (and lycra, nylon and polyester – the main ingredients for most swimwear – are all plastics) and also, my somewhat altered (gravity has been less than kind) body, I’m now fully on board with investing in swimwear. And no, I’m not talking £400 for a piece of dental floss. I will argue, though, that paying more for a piece of engineering that will last beyond this season - and will actually keep you feeling secure when you find yourself running after blown away umbrellas and small humans - is justified.
So, in order to purchase a style that will see you beyond this (very late) summer, you need to know what suits you.
First up, the big one: to bikini or not to bikini?
Quite frankly, the only person who can answer this for you, is you. If you’re comfortable in a bikini, then go for it. There is no age cut-off, nor size cut-off where bikinis become inappropriate. My only two-pence worth would be that if, like me, you are longer through the body and shorter through the leg, it’s a bikini life all the way. When your legs are on the shorter side, a one-piece will only serve to highlight the length in your torso. (The exception is a style that is cut to the navel as this will break up the torso a little). They’re also desperately uncomfortable for those of us with long bodies as they’re often not made with enough fabric in them.
If you are shorter through the leg, then look for bikini bottoms that are high cut to give the illusion of a longer leg. My preferred style goes right the way to my waist (my narrowest point) but is relatively minimal through the hip area – think 80s aerobics kit rather than a true 50s style. Devotees of Eres swimwear generally swear by it and nothing else and their Conquete Bikini briefs (an eye-watering £155) are my ideal shape.
Best for the Hourglass
Bikini top, £48, and bottoms, £28, Miss Mandalay, missmandalay.com
If you’re a full hourglass, the first thing you need is good support in your bust so that there is air around your waist. Halter necks are fantastic for a big bust as not only do they provide great support without resembling actual underwear, they also bring the eye up and in to the face, thereby maintaining the balance with a full bottom. Bravissimo are consistently my go-to for bikinis that have great support beyond a D-cup. They’re not always the most stylish and I will always resent having to pay through the nose for something that I don’t truly love, but without fail, they stock the best range of truly supportive swimwear (and sports bras) for my GG bust. This season they’re low on the halter necks, and I’m wary of the styles with super thick straps that can make the bust look even bigger, but I do love the Cadiz style with the high rise briefs (top, £36, bottoms, £26).
Alternatively, I discovered Miss Mandalay via Bravissimo several years ago and they made one of my most favourite bikinis. Lots of support but not a naff print in style. I love the dark green halter style above with the high rise briefs.
Best for the Triangle
Bikini top, £25, and bottoms, £25, cosstores.com
Elle Macpherson – someone who does not struggle with excess flesh, nor short legs, but who does know a thing or two about lingerie and swimwear – once told me that the bigger the feature of your body, the smaller the coverage should be. i.e. if you’re blessed with a big bottom, opt for small knickers. And of course, she’s right. Whilst it seems counter-intuitive, for classic triangles, I urge you to channel Elle. Wearing a large piece of fabric across a generous derriere and a smaller one across your bust will only exacerbate the difference. Instead, opt for smaller coverage over your bottom, and fuller coverage – such as a bandeau - over your bust. And again, look for styles that cut high on the leg, which then won’t draw a straight line across your widest point – your hips.
Best for the Inverted Triangle
Bikini top, £40, and bottoms, £40, boden.co.uk
Similar to the triangle, you’re looking for less coverage over the larger part of your anatomy and more over the smaller part. If you’re an inverted triangle – where your shoulders are wider than your hips – try halter neck styles that will narrow your shoulders, and a pair of 50s style bikini bottoms to balance your frame.
Best for Straight Figures
Bikini, £240, Zimmermann, matchesfashion.com
For athletic and squarer body shapes, think opposites attract (one of the more common sartorial guides). Avoid square necklines and anything too sporty, and opt instead for triangle styles or anything with a ruffle that will soften edges.
Best for Round bodies
Swimsuit, £56, bravissimo.com
If you’re fuller through the middle, look for 50s style bikini bottoms, one-pieces with pannelling that will stretch you up, or styles in luscious prints that distract the eye. Any detail – contrasting colour, an interesting neckline, or a small frill – around the bust is great for drawing the up and away from the tummy.
And whilst I obviously endorse choice and autonomy and never body-shaming, in almost all cases I would argue against a tankini. I always feel women in tankinis look like they’re apologising for their bodies or are ashamed of their body in some way, and that’s not a good look. Go for a bikini (try high waisted pants, if you want to hold in a soft tummy) or a stylish one-piece. But similarly, if you just like the practicalities of a tankini (they are certainly easier for loo stops than a one piece and require less suncream), then who am I to comment?! Whatever you choose, though, wear it with pride.