Trainers: are you wearing yours wrong?

I feel I should preface this post with the edict that you should feel free to ignore any of the advice that follows as you see fit. As with all my posts, my aim is to explain why some styles work on some people but not on others. So, if you’re struggling with an empire line, or big sleeves, or skinny jeans, but are not entirely sure why, then I hope my musings help you unravel the problem and perhaps even find a way to fix them. The philosophies I’m drawing on here are based on objectively reviewing shapes - I like to think it’s something akin to science - and are driven by a desire to boost my and others’ confidence. But, ultimately, fashion is subjective. So you can, and should, ignore any of the advice here if you wish! I promise not to be offended.

So, to this week’s column.

For most of us these days, our feet are constantly ensconced in trainers. We’re certainly not putting on high heels and even loafers or slip-ons feel quite formal when we’re not going further than the supermarket. But, trainers can be controversial. Who knew, right? Let me explain.

When it comes to trainers, there are two things to consider.

Firstly, it’s fundamental to understand proportions. As with all accessories, size is crucial. If you have a delicate bone structure, and very slim legs, you’re going to want a smaller shoe: any of the big retro ‘Dad’ trainers, are going to make you look like you have Lego pieces for feet. Conversely, if you’re bigger boned (and I’m not using that as a euphemism for ‘fat’. One can be big boned, and a size 8, or a size 16 with delicate bone structure), you’re going to want a bigger shoe. A small style will make your body look like it’s rounder than it actually is.

Secondly, where the shoe stops is key. The lower the point that the trainer cuts your leg the more flattering it will be. Which means hi-tops are out. Not only do they cover the slimmest part of our legs - aka the ankle - they also have a tendency to stop at an unflattering point on our calves.

For those of you who are ready to sign out now knowing how I feel about hi-tops, firstly I apologise. Secondly, I would argue that they can work under a cropped jean, but the jean should be wide leg: there needs to be a contrast between the width of the hem of the jean and the leg, so as to make the leg look slim and shapely rather than chunky all the way from the heel to the knee.

So – assuming I’ve kept any of you interested up to this point – which trainers do I rate?

Screenshot 2021-02-15 at 16.59.47.png — Best chunky style

£100, Veja, net-a-porter.com

Not all Vejas are created equal. Vejas have been doing a roaring trade since the Duchess of Sussex wore them on a yacht in Sydney Harbour in 2018. Certainly in London, you can’t move for Vejas - they are the trainer brand du jour. But, there are some styles that are more flattering than others. The V-styles (V-10, V-12 and V-Lock, for example) and the Campos have a significant tongue and are cut high, so have a tendency to cut the leg off higher than is strictly flattering. The Esplar on the other hand, is still chunky, but cut slightly lower and is therefore a little more flattering on everyone but especially for those with shorter, sturdier legs.

Best delicate trainers

£65, Superga, superga.co.uk

Supergas, favoured on the other hand by the Duchess of Cambridge (I’m sure some tabloid could fashion a ‘Battle of the Duchesses’ headline in there somewhere), are a more delicate plimsoll so better for the lighter boned among us. They also come in a slight platform style which is great for adding a bit of height. I like the mid-platform rather than the high platform, which rather defeats the purpose of wearing a delicate plimsoll in the first place.

best
Retro Style

£75, New Balance, schuh.co.uk

I’m rather partial to any retro trainers. Especially the 574 style from New Balance, which has a total 70s feel to it. These are great mid-weight trainers and don’t have the upturned, stubby nose that some NB styles have - you know what I mean, don’t you? The original Nike Daybreaks I also love, as well as the adidas Originals by Wales Bonner collaboration (which sold out almost instantly), both of which are a slightly daintier take on the retro runner. Select the style that works best on your frame and wear them with mid-blue cropped straight-leg denim, or a floaty floral dress.

My personal favourite

£129.95, Nike, nike.com

The Nike Air Max 270 is my favourite pair of trainers and I love them when they’re box fresh and exceedingly clean. The sock-like finish means I can wear them without a pesky ankle sock poking out the top, shortening my leg. They come in a lovely Rose colour, but I’m a sucker for anything neon.

The Classic All-Rounder

£75, adidas, adidas.co.uk

And if you’re in any doubt at all, you can’t go wrong with adidas Stan Smiths. They’ve been omnipresent on the feet of fashion editors and influencers the world over since Phoebe Philo wore them on the Celine runway in 2010. They’re chunky enough that they work on sturdier legs, but not so chunky that they throw off a skinny one. And they’re cut deliciously low so that you can make the most of your ankles.

After all, there’s a reason that ‘Pretty Ankle Contests’ were popular in the 1920s and 30s.

Prue x

ADMIN: Everything I’ve included here, I’ve included solely because I really rate it. I may though, if you buy some of the items mentioned, earn a small commission from that purchase.

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